Aug
25
Lightning Photography
By Alex W
I remember reading an amazing article in National Geographic back in the early ’90s about lightning. There were a handful of brilliant photographs, but the one that really grabbed me was a night shot overlooking a city as a storm front moved in, capturing 30 or more forks of lightning over a 30-second exposure. I’m no photographer (as I am happy to admit at every available opportunity), but when I saw an incredible storm front moving in on the evening of the 24th, I couldn’t resist trying to create some of my own photographs of lightning.
I grabbed my camera and tripod and set up for a simple 5 second exposure under the cover of the patio. It became obvious pretty quick that this wasn’t going to work. With the storm already on top of me, any forks (sparks?) that found their way out of the clouds were illuminating the whole area, leaving a washed-out, white mess.
I dropped to 3 seconds, but it was still too long. Though it was interesting to see how the lighting on the treeline changed depending on whether the lightning was happening behind me or in front of me.
Eventually, I set the exposure time for 1 second and managed to catch my first clear spark.
But with a 1 second exposure, it became much harder to capture lightning. I couldn’t just pull the trigger and wait anymore. Well, I could, but the chances of actually capturing anything in that time was pretty low. And even when I did, things were still getting washed out.
So I finally tried a half second exposure, and that seemed to get some decent results.
By this point I had taken about 260 pictures and filled up my SD card. With only 1 or 2 worth showing by this point, I had developed a much greater appreciation for the quality of the pictures on the Wikipedia page for lightning.
I dumped the card to my laptop and ran outside with an umbrella to see if I could get some pictures with fewer trees in the way. The lightning at this point was incredible. I could tell when a good one was coming because it would start from behind me, lighting up the trees. Then, from a hole in the clouds, tendrils of lightning burst through, like the tentacles of an octopus, and spread out in a circular pattern, crawling and dancing along the bottom surface of the clouds, spreading out like the spokes on a bicycle wheel.
Thinking back to that National Geographic article and comparing it with my experiences during this storm, I’ve got some clues to improve my pictures for the next time. First, I need to get up to a higher spot of ground so that I can get clearer pictures of the sky with fewer obstructions. I’m not going to go stand on a bare hill with my metal tripod of anything, but something like an apartment balcony would be great.
Second, it seems that once the storm is on top of me, it’s going to be a lot harder to get a good picture. I should set up so that I can get a clear shot of the front as it approaches. There are a couple of advantages to this – shots from further away won’t light up the entire sky as much, making it easier to capture clear pictures of lightning. It’ll also keep me ahead of the rain, and safer from the sky.
Finally, I really need to learn how to work my camera properly. At one point I managed to mess up the focus meaning there’s a series of 3 to 4 shots that are pretty blurry. I was also shooting in shutter priority mode on the D40. I believe there is a way to get control over both the aperature and shutter speed at the same time, but I’m not sure how. I think a smaller aperature would have let me do much longer exposures without having the whole scene washed out. But then again, with the reflections due to the clouds, it may not have helped that much. More experimentation is needed.















































You should be able to put the D40 into a full manual mode, which would give you the kind of granular control you’re looking for.
Something to consider, especially you had the right idea with a tripod – activate the shutter remotely. If the storm is right on top of you with lightning that fills the sky, you can up the aperture and set your shutter to bulb mode. That’ll let you open and close it manually.
You won’t want to do that with the shutter button since it’ll shake the camera and blur all of your nice shots, but the D40 does support Nikon’s IR remote control, which is quite cheap:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/207373-USA/Nikon_4730.html
Awesome photos!
For the D40, the M on the dial is Manual mode. Shutter speed is set with the control dial; Aperture is set with the control dial while holding the EV+/- button. Be sure to turn off Auto ISO.
If you want even longer shutter speeds, you may need to use a neutral density (ND) filter.
You can also get a remote for $3 from DealExtreme:
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/ml-l3-wireless-ir-remote-control-for-nikon-d90-d80-d70-more-45428
Good shots and great write-up, Alex.
Something I’ve been experimenting with for photographing lightning is CHDK and the motion_detect functionality from scripts running on the camera. The lighting appears as “motion” to a suitably-outfitted Canon PowerShot and can trip the shutter. This software-only solution seems a bit cleaner than wiring up some external light-detecting hardware to trip the shutter.
DW
Yup, your camera was definitely working against you. Your shutter speed was fine, but the camera was adjusting the aperture to compensate, thus the washed out images. Next time, use the same 3+ second shutter speed (even bulb mode!) and set the aperture to f11 or so.
Another trick you can use is to hold a piece of black cardboard in front of the lens, with the camera on a tripod. Set the shutter to 30 seconds, and only remove the cardboard when a strike happens. You can capture multiple strikes in a single frame this way.
Finally, you could make a lightning-trigger for the camera. I remember seeing plans for on in Popular Electronics years ago, and I’m sure there are some floating around the web.
Oh! You can use these tricks for great fireworks pictures, too.
Wow, thanks everyone for the awesome information and feedback. I’ll have to play with full manual mode and make sure I know how to work everything for next time. I had read some of this stuff in the manual before, but when it came time to perform, well…
Looks like there’s some new products for me to pick up (wireless trigger and an ND filter), and a couple DIY things to try out (black cardboard screen and light sensor).
@DW I’m totally amazed at some of the stuff the CHDK guys are managing to pull off. A motion sensor? That’s awesome!
Those are great Alex! I have CHDK on one of my cameras — you can write scripts in Basic that control most camera functions. There’s a few Nikon/Arduino controllers out there.